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Umami: The 5th flavor
Parmesan cheese and prosciutto. Oysters, clams and tuna. Beef and potatoes. Soybeans
and seaweed and fish sauce. Mushrooms, red “beefy” tomatoes and carrots…If any of these foods elicits a
deep “mmm” in you, it’s probably the umami.
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| French Onion Soup. Very umami, |
Umami, the official name of the fifth taste, means delicious in Japanese.
And it is finally for real. Beyond sweet, salt, bitter and sour, science has now proven that umami can be tasted on the
tongue. Even if we all knew it anyway, finally after hundreds of years, science agrees.
Umami is often described
as a deep or rounding flavor, earthy or savory. It’s present in fermented sauces and grains. Braised meats and earthy
vegetables. Fungus. Ripened cheese. Shellfish and fish stock. You can practically taste it right now, can’t you?
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| Searing meat brings out the flavor |
What you are mentally tasting is glutamate, which makes up a significant portion of plant and animal proteins.
Umami is the flavor of glutamate and ribonucleotides, which occur naturally
in many foods including meat, fish, vegetables and dairy products. These are the ingredients we need to break down protein
and build muscle; so the ability to taste umami is actually key to our survival. (Interesting that it
is the great flavor of the fall, could there be a biological reason for that?) It is, essentially,
our comfort flavor.
And what does this mean to the average foodie? Umami always adds depth to a dish, and it
bears thinking about as you assemble your flavors. It’s the splash of Worcestershire in the cocktail sauce, or the fish
sauce in the broth. According to the Umami Information Center (of course there’s one), certain pairings especially bring out the flavor. And the effect multiplies. It’s enhanced when vegetables are cooked with meats, such as
onions and beef bones, or scallops and mushrooms. Braising, searing, poaching and simmering release the flavor in meats. It’s
why carrots, potatoes and legumes work so well in a stew. And why cheese enhances ham, or parmesan works with tomato sauce.
One caution about the multiplier effect: An umami-educated winemaster points out at UmamiInfo.com that
umami-rich foods might do better paired with a brighter or sweeter white or red wine. In wine
pairings, similar flavors tend to cancel each other out, bringing out only the flavors of bitterness and astringency in the
wine. It’s a classic reaction between asparagus and wine, for example. For this reason, it is best to pair foods high
in umami with wines such as Rieslings, Chenin Blanc, Beaujolais and Shiraz. You may want to consider the same effect with
your favorite seasonal beer and a cheese. A suggestion.
Where do you find umami-rich foods? Everywhere. Every culture around the world has sought or created foods high in the flavor. This, from Kate’s
Global Kitchen (2006)
Some globe-trotting highlights of familiar indigenous umami foods might include:
• France: broths and stocks, Roquefort cheese, red wines. • Italy: Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, prosciutto
ham, tomato sauce. • Scandinavia: salted herring, pickled herring, fermented herring (a.k.a., surströmming,
a revered national dish), and even fresh herring. • Germany: cured sausages, sauerkraut, beers. • North
Africa: spicy braised meat dishes called tagines, numerous legume preparations (including falafel and hummus). •
Japan: dashi (a broth of seaweed and dried skipjack tuna), soy sauce, sushi. • Southern Asia: fish sauce (especially
in Thai and Vietnamese dishes). • Australia: Vegemite (an intensely-tasty yeast extract). And that's just a
few.
As we fall into Fall. It’s
a good time to learn why you like that steaming vat of something rich and savory. And more important, to address it.
Below find an umami recipe to curl up with. Easy Cod and Oyster Gratin
From the Umami Information Center.
What could be more comforting
and welcoming on a cold winter’s night than a bubbling hot gratin? This recipe provides umami in the form of oysters
and grated cheese. Ideal served with some crusty bread. Serves 2
Ingredients: 8 oysters, shucked, reserving
liquor 1 cod fillet 1 cup chicken stock 2 tbsp butter 1 green onion 1 potato 3 tsp flour 1-1/4 cups milk 1/4 cup grated cheese (e.g. cheddar) salt & pepper to taste 1 tsp chopped parsley
1. Clean the oysters in salted water and dry well. Cut the cod into bite-sized chunks. Cut the spring
onion into 1/2” lengths, and slice the potato into 1/2” dice.
2. Bring the chicken stock
to the boil, add the oysters and cod and poach quickly. Remove the oysters and cod, and reserve the cooking liquor.
3. Melt the butter in a frying pan, and fry the spring onion and potato, before adding the flour. When the
flour has formed a paste, begin to gradually add the milk and the cooking liquor from step 2, stirring well after each addition.
4. Season with salt and pepper. When the sauce has thickened, remove from the heat. Pour half of the
sauce into an ovenproof dish, then add the oysters and cod. Top with the remaining sauce, and sprinkle with grated cheese.
Place under the broiler until lightly browned on top.
5. Remove from the grill, and sprinkle with
chopped parsley before serving.
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