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The Wild Orchid Cafe Wilder Talk at The Wild Orchid Café
It has awards out the wazoo. It’s Zagat-rated in the high-20s.
Wine Spectator and Baltimore Magazine extol it, year after year. And it’s in a little house hidden
on a don’t-miss-the-turn street in the Maritime Republic of Eastport, over the bridge and far away from the touristas
section of Annapolis. On a Sunday afternoon we pulled up a chair with Jim Wilder, chef/owner of the Wild Orchid Café.
Frankly, we did not expect the person we met. With all the kudos, etc., Jim should have had a major ego in tow. But what strikes you immediately is that he has one of the easiest, most genuine smiles you’ve seen on a human being in a long, long time — and that his down-to-earth style is why The Wild Orchid Café works.
Foodie: What on earth attracted you to this business?
Jim: It was exciting! I loved the busy-ness and energy of the kitchen. I was 14 years old, Annapolis-born and bred, and I…um…”stretched” my resume so that I could work in a kitchen. I can’t imagine anyone accepting that I had years of experience at the age of 14, but there I was, making salads. Foodie: And your first job as a chef…? Jim: …was at Harry Browne’s. I poured over the books, trying to create specials that would sell out the next day. A friend of mine at the restaurant brought in a chef who’d been at the Inn at Little Washington to teach me about the business. Interesting guy. Definite ideas. Some crazy, but definite ideas. I remember he liked Schmidt’s Bread a lot. “You only need one bread, and that’s Schmidt’s.” Then one day, he said, “There, I’ve taught you all you can use.” And he was gone.
Foodie: Now how do you create your menus?
Jim: It’s all feedback. People’s tastes change, so menus change, dishes change. Our Scallop Napoleon, that’s evolved a lot over the years. When a new season comes around we stretch ourselves a little, everybody gets a little creative. Right now we’re working out our spring menu, trying out some items. If it works, we’ll put it on the permanent menu for the season. Foodie: Like what? Jim: Oh…like smoked salmon cheesecake. It’s very good. We’ll see if it makes the menu. Foodie: How do you know where to go with foods? Jim: Half experience, but half of what becomes available. The products are always changing; tastes are always changing. Right now, for example, Alaskan halibut is available; and King salmon. We’re working with tuna and mahi, also.
Foodie: Where are you on the “buy local”
philosophy?
Jim: Well, we have to do it; we have to support sustainable food. So I try to choose local as much and as long through the season as possible. And support small farms. But it’s ultimately the taste that counts. I try to work with Maryland growers. Now herbs, for example. Fresh herbs are becoming more available in Maryland, and what a difference! Pretty soon, we’ll start growing our own out in back. Foodie: Is there something that you’re looking for, especially from around here? Jim: Heirloom tomatoes. Especially those really flavorful dark purple kind. Foodie: You’re known for your wine list. How does it get selected? Jim: We have Tuesday tastings every week, Nicole selects the wines….and we’re constantly adapting our wine list as the menu changes. Most are limited; wines you can’t find just anywhere. People who own their own vineyards in Italy, for example. When we get a good one, some of the smaller boutique wines that are good values, that’s fun. It’s exciting finding those. I think we have about 200 to 250 wines. Foodie: What about the awards? Which one means the most to you? Jim: Zagat, I think, because it’s from real restaurant-goers. The awards are the same as customer feedback to us. It’s a way of keeping ourselves in check. Did we go up a point in Zagat? Great! Did we go down? What do we need to improve? Foodie: What is the Wild Orchid Café? Beyond you, what does this place stand for? Jim: Oh, that’s interesting. I guess entrées that are centerpieces in themselves. Accompaniments that stand for themselves. And meals that work together, that blend and balance. A dining experience, something you can’t find just anywhere.
Foodie: What keeps you going? What’s the juice? Jim: I’d have to say that this business is always new. There’s a new product, something new is in season, and we have good people here at the restaurant who want to give things a shot. So we talk it over, decide what to try, and we let the customer decide. I used to be more “do it my way,” but talented people want to stretch themselves and get creative. Freedom gives people a reason to stay; to say “it’s mine.” When something goes over well, there’s a pride that comes from it. Foodie: Have you got a recipe you can share with us? Jim: Oh, yeah, sure! Let me think about it. For Jim's Amazing Smoked Salmon Cheesecake recipe, click here:
Wild Orchid Café at a Glance: 410.268.8009
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