This “out-of-the-way-ness” actually adds to the charm, and makes for some good stories. Take the couple that arrived from the Brampton Inn, for example. The gentleman announced to his friend on his cellphone (and consequently to everyone else) that he would be back soon to his work, that currently he was “in Washington.” This raised a few eyebrows among the locals. Perhaps it was the nearest point of reference he could offer. 

Jason Hopwood and Glenn May took over the Kennedyville Inn in 2002 from Kevin McKinney and Barbara Silcox. Jason, who had been sous-chef at the Inn, moved to the front of the house. To preserve its mighty reputation, he called in his friend Glenn May. The two met at in a stint at Cork’s restaurant in Baltimore, where Glenn was chef de cuisine. At the time of the call, Glenn was working at Antrim 1844 in Taneytown. After two visits to the Eastern Shore, he made the jump.

Glenn’s menu now changes perhaps every two or three weeks “at chef’s whim,” to reflect the flavors and ingredients of the seasons. Currently, you’ll find the heartier flavors of early fall: veal tenderloin, Maryland crabcakes and balsamic glazed duck breast. For a link to the menu, click at the bottom of this article.

But every dish is carefully paired with complementary flavors and textures, always striving for local and seasonal. Veal tenderloin with roasted cherries. Hangar steak with cippollini onions. At a beer tasting dinner there, the osso buco of venison, perfectly tender, was accented with braised escarole and minisculely diced apple and turnip.. (The patrons that night also regaled us with tales of former wine dinners, so we’ll be back for that.)

Then of course, there’s the barbecue. It’s what the Kennedyville Inn has long been famous for. The dry-rubbed pulled pork that’s smoked for seven hours, the tender ribs.

But what I love is the true welcome. Everyone checks, just the right number of times, to make sure you’re content. They chat knowledgeably about wine suggestions and menu ingredients. They smile. They  may even remember your name. Together with a meal worth reminiscing over, they bring you back.

To find out more:

    The Kennedyville Inn

        * Open Wednesday through Sunday
        * Large Plates: $20 to $25
        * Mastercard, VISA, Discover
        * 11986 Augustine Herman Highway (Rt. 213)
        * Kennedyville, MD 21645

    410-348-2400 • www.kennedyvilleinn.com