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Greeted at Gunpowder Bison

Gunpowder Bison & Trading Company
Last night, we feasted on Bison Osso Buco. The thick slices of shanks were deeply browned, then braised for a couple of hours in white wine and dry vermouth, broth, a bit of tomato paste, sautéed aromatic vegetables and a bouquet garni.

At the last minute, I added steamed spinach. A friend made a creamy risotto to serve alongside. It was heavenly. Long, appreciative silences hung in the air while we ate — punctuated, once or twice by “Bison is delicious.”

Bison is delicious. “It’s like beefier beef,” says Angela, struggling a bit for an apt description. Angela and Trey Lewis are the owners of Gunpowder Bison and Trading Company. They have now about 100 head of bison with plans in the works for many more — it’s difficult to keep up with demand. On the day we visited, Trey was working on finding more land for expansion and it sounded as if he’d succeeded.

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A beautiful osso buco with amber beer

Now about the taste. “Beefier beef” turns out to be a not-so-bad description. The word “buffalo” — a nickname for the American Bison — probably came from “les boeufs” which the French explorers and trappers called cettes animales. But they’re not related to beef cows; in fact, they’re most closely related to the European Buffalo. And even there the relationship is a stretch. The bison is all its own species. It turns out there’s a subspecies called the “Bison bison bison.”
 
At Gunpowder Bison, they know all this stuff. They know cuts and cooking. They know recipes and species. They know agriculture and aging. All so you don’t have to. Here’s what we learned.

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About Bison Meat

The bison at Gunpowder take about 18 to 24 months to mature. That’s a bit longer than grain-fed beef. And speaking of feed, their bison can feed on a combination of grass and grain. Inevitably, the bison nuzzle down to find the kernels of corn amidst the grass.
 
Fully dressed, a mature bison will provide about 500 to 600 pounds of meat. The cuts at Gunpowder Bison are very similar to the cuts you’re used to finding at the grocery store. Exception:  the dramatic “Tomahawk Rib Eye Steak” – a rib-eye attached to a rib bone that’s more than twelve inches long. “Makes for an impressive presentation,” says Trey, drily. Yes. 
 

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The meat is much leaner than cornfed beef and perhaps slightly leaner than pastured beef. It is sweeter, with none of the gameyness you might expect from a wild animal. Bison also cooks faster than beef, so for steaks and grilling, Angela recommends a quick sear and then a short finish on a medium heat. For roasts, turn the temperature down, and cook for the same amount of time.

At Gunpowder Bison, there’s a terrific store inside the barn-like home that Trey built. You can find all things bison there: horns, sweatshirts, objets d’art and now — bison dog food. But most importantly, in the freezer, you can also find about twenty cuts of frozen bison including flank steaks, tenderloin and filet. Plus bison hotdogs, bison “grillers” and bison burger.

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If you can’t get to Monkton, stores around the area carry Gunpowder Bison including most Graul’s Supermarket, farmers markets, and more restaurants are offering it all the time. You’ll find a list of stores here.

One final thing. Bison are ENORMOUS. and not necessarily friendly. People can die in close quarters with bison. They have not exactly taken to domestication, even when raised from calves. You should visit Gunpowder Bison if only to see these beasts up close.

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Angela and Trey Lewis of Gunpowder Bison

You’ll walk away with a great meal in your shopping bag. And a far better appreciation of what early Americans had to go through for a good steak.
 
 
Gunpowder Bison and Trading Company
1270 Monkton Rd, Monkton, MD
410-343-2277
 
The Gunpowder Bison & Trading site has great recipes, including BBQ shortribs, Beer Braised Brisket and Peppered Hangar Steak. Remember that you can use any beef recipe for bison, but the cooking times and internal temperatures vary. The site has lots of tips for cooking, as well. Best of all, try the bison burger straight on the grill, if possible. It's delicious.