Asian Pears. Orange Cat Farm.

“It’s the first farm after the turn that isn’t soybeans or corn,” says Jack Woodward. Fortunately for the horticulturally impaired, there’s also a sign: “Orange Cat Farm. Asian pears."

So that’s where we turn. Into a beautifully kept yard and orchard where there are rows upon rows of Asian pear trees — five varieties in various stages of ripeness — more than 1,300 trees in all. The trees are groaning with fruit.

Crispy, crunchy, sweet, exceedingly juicy, with a clean white flesh, Asian pears are truly their own species of pear — not a cross with apples. However, unlike their pear cousins the Bartlett and Anjou, Asian pears grow ready to eat on the tree without ripening on the table.

The Woodwards take us on a tour down the rows, sampling freely. We’re just past the first harvests of the Shinseiki. Hosui and 20th Century will be ready soon. The gargantuan and aptly named Olympic will be picked in the beginning of October. The juice literally drips out of the pear as we bite into them.

The different kinds of fruits are as varied as apples can be: in the chewiness and texture of skin, uniformity of coloration, size, juiciness and sweetness. The Shinseiki, for example, has a mottled skin and more flavorful tartness at the core. The Olympic is brown and smooth. Yoinashi is a new variety for the Woodwards, and isn’t available yet this year. (“Nashi,” by the way, is Japanese for pear.)

Where to buy ‘em.

Right now, you’ll find Asian Pears from Orange Cat at markets and farmstands around Kent and Queen Anne’s County through October. Marcie mans the table at the Chestertown farmers’ markets on Saturday. They also take their pears to the Ripples Market and Otwell's in Galena, Still Pond Market, and Jeannie’s in Queen Anne’s. Other local growers appear at farmers markets farther afield.

And of course, the grocery stores have their own take on Asian pears. Few are local. You’ve probably seen them. Grossly expensive, wearing those lacy paper cups like so much pear lingerie. Many of these pears are actually Asian — shipped from China and Japan, which produce millions of tons a year (and have been doing so for centuries.)

For the shopper and consumer, Asian pears, even local ones, still seem a little bit pricey. A quart is $5 at the farmer’s market; $1 apiece. They run about $2.50 a pound at the stands and stores. Some of it might be the exotic quality of the fruit, they require careful picking. However, they do keep an amazingly long time in the fridge.

How to use ‘em.

Beyond coring and eating fresh, like an apple, you can also chunk or sliver into a salad, relish or slaw. The crisp sweetness works well with vinaigrettes and flavorful ingredients from prosciutto to bleu cheese to arugula. They hold their color and only brown slightly, but can benefit from a little lemon juice. Marcie offers up these recipes; the first calls for sautéing the pears, the second for using them fresh:

RECIPE: Chicken and Asian Pears

    * 2 whole chicken breasts, boned and skinned
    * 4 tsp. of sesame oil
    * 1 tsp. ginger root
    * 2 tsp. sugar
    * 2 fresh asian pears

Cut chicken breasts into slices across the grain. Heat sesame oil in a skillet, add ginger and stir. Add sliced chicken, cook slowly until golden brown (2 min. on each side). Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Core pears, cut in slices lengthwise. Add to chicken sprinkle with sugar and stir lightly. Cover and cook until pears are heated through. Serve hot.

RECIPE: Asian Pears with Ginger-Maple Syrup

    * 1⁄4 cup water
    * 1 Tb. matchstick-size pieces of peeled fresh ginger
    * 1 cup pure maple syrup
    * 2 Tbs. whiskey or brandy
    * 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
    * 1 tsp. grated lemon peel
    * 1⁄2 tsp. ground nutmeg

    * 4 fresh, chilled asian pears, about 1⁄2-lb each.
    * 2 Tbs. finely chopped crystallized ginger
    * 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint leaves.

Combine water with fresh ginger in heavy medium saucepan. Cover, simmer until ginger is tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in syrup, whiskey, lemon juice, lemon peel and nutmeg. Simmer 10 minutes to blend flavors, stirring occasionally. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cover, chill. Bring to simmer before continuing.)

Slice pears into rounds. Overlap 6 rounds on each plate. Drizzle sauce over. Top with crystallized ginger and mint. Serves six. (Bon Appétit, March 1998)

Orange Cat Farms

(And yes, there is an orange cat, her name is Scoot.)

Worton, MD * 410-348-5104